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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:16 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 6:16 am
Posts: 21
Location: Charlotte, NC
Acquired at an estate auction. 88K, supposedly 20k on the rebuilt 454, inspection sticker is 8 years old, so probably 7+ years of sitting in a pole barn. Cranked & ran fine, does have some carb issues (fuel delivery/adjustment probably).
After flushing the brakes, drove it about 100 miles home.

Weather has not been real conducive to handling mechanical issues. Intend to visit a moving company scale to determine axle weights.
Found a couple of Owner/service manuals online. 1 covers up to 1975 other covers 1983. which would have better coverage for my 79?
1. Steering components need to be replaced mainly because of difficulty in finding & won't get any easier + shocks.
2. Batteries? What is the recommended engine battery? 1 or 2 spare batteries for the coach/genset? Size?
3. Full scale tune-up, carb rebuild, plugs & wires. Air & emission filters/consumables.
4. 16.5 wheels: Convert to 16" or 17" Chevy/GMC 1 ton non-dually if 16s don't clear the calipers
5. If the off-set is correct, is there another issue I am neglecting to consider.
6. Tires: Could someone explain why a 16" E rated tire (3640 lbs) wouldn't work
7. Exterior: Cleaning & Polishing is in order Recommendations for compound/polish are welcome
8. Interior: Shag carpet that really has to go.
9. Front wall panels have splits or cracks. Is there a fix short of replacing the entire panel?
10. Recommendations for the floor? Tile or Pergo type wood? There is a plate for transmission access.
11. Raised surfaces will get commercial type carpet.
12. Suggestions for the currently carpeted walls?
13. Liquor cabinet/table: Need input on how to remove this from the passenger wall
14. Ceiling cabinets: I can see & remove the screws holding the ceiling strip but cannot figure out how cabinets attach to the walls.

Lots of questions. Any recommendations or suggestions are welcome & appreciated.


Attachments:
Lt Rear Quarter Exterior.jpg
Lt Rear Quarter Exterior.jpg [ 66 KiB | Viewed 10893 times ]
Side View  012516.jpg
Side View 012516.jpg [ 255.24 KiB | Viewed 10893 times ]
Panel Crack Driver Window.jpg
Panel Crack Driver Window.jpg [ 187.63 KiB | Viewed 10894 times ]

_________________
Mfg Date 0679
30' Revcon Mid-coach bath/Double Bed LR
VIN RFS279000143 Ser # 9310
454 Quadrajet Dexter Rear Axles Stock Drivetrain
16.5 950x16 x 6
Soon to be 225-75R16 on GMC 8 Lug Wheels
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:36 am
Posts: 116
Location: IL
Hmm, that crack is interesting. That should be aluminum sheet. For that to crack in that location seems very strange. There really should be no stress in that area. I'd almost be inclines to pop the window out and inspect the frame and makes sure the frame is not cracked. Yes, that may seem like a lot of work, but I can't imagine what would cause the aluminum to crack in that locating. If push from the outside, can you flex the crack?

For the rest of your list:
1) Have not found an alternate source for tie rod ends, other than Marty Moore. An alternate probably exists, but have not stumbled on it. Lower ball joints should be replaced with lowers from a Hummer H1. Do not confuse that with H2/3. It requires drilling the mounting holes to a larger size, but it does fit and the modification is not the hard part. Replace the zerk with a 45 degree zerk, so you can grease it.
2) no specific recommendations for batteries, although recently I've been getting batteries from NAPA. They seem to be less expensive than Sears for a good quality battery.
3)
4,5,&6) Here is where life gets interesting. The proper offset is not available, although if one chooses a narrow rim, you can come close. Not worth it, as the narrow rim will not provide side to side stability, so you gain nothing by getting the offset close. There is some discussion over offset ramifications. I personally have not been able to prove any handling difference. I'm running a standard GM/Ford 1980s 16" rim from American Racing. 8" width. On the rear, mine had spacers, which I eventually removed. That was a job drilling and tapping the holes to put studs in the hubs. You have a Wolverine axle, so yours may be set up different than my Dexter axle. Switching to 16s will give you a softer ride. You will be well within the required load rating with an E rated tire. Rear is rate 8K split between 4 tires, so 3K rating is plenty. Front axle will have all of 5K lbs on it, so any 3K rated tire will suffice.
7)If you really want to go for it, go to the trouble of scrubbing it down - can even us baking soda as an abrasive. If that doesn't do it, then go for rubbing compound from your local auto parts store. Once you get it good and clean, buy a gallon of Zep WET LOOK floor polish, Rub it on with a rag. I would recommend two coats, and not more than 3 coats. others have put 4 to 5 coats on and have complained about it flaking off. If it is thin enough, I don't think it will flake - especially if the surface is clean. That will put a pretty good shine on it that will last for years. It will make it tons easier to clean. Since I did that, I have only used a cheap 110 volt pressure washer to clean it. No rags. The dirt and crud just sprays off. And yes I drive in the winter salt!
8)Embrace the shag...
9) see above
10) Anytime you remove carpet, you increase the noise level inside the coach. If I were doing it, I would only do the entrance area. Besides the noise, nothing worse than getting out of bed barefoot and stepping on a cold floor. BTY: Pergo junk. Can't say what to use, but if you can get some samples, soak the samples in a glass of water for a month before you make your choice.
11)
12) For the carpeted walls, I would go to a fabric store and see if you can find suede upholstery. It keeps some of the original character, but you should be able to find modern colors. Suede is also stiff and thick, so it attaches to the wall better. Mine is blue suede and looks good with the browns. I never bothered gluing it. It only attached at the top and hangs down. It seems to cling to the wall.
13+) Everything is screwed in. I've not ever removed any upper cabinets, but my table between the chairs was held in with no less than 22 screws!

_________________
Dave

The Flying Fortress
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
Yes it is SOLD

FMCA F298817


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:04 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 6:16 am
Posts: 21
Location: Charlotte, NC
Daveinet wrote:
Hmm, that crack is interesting. That should be aluminum sheet. For that to crack in that location seems very strange. There really should be no stress in that area. I'd almost be inclines to pop the window out and inspect the frame and makes sure the frame is not cracked. Yes, that may seem like a lot of work, but I can't imagine what would cause the aluminum to crack in that locating. If push from the outside, can you flex the crack?


The panel is ~1/8" plastic sheet surfaced with the paper(?) finish. I was able to get a side view There are a number of surface cracks similar to the 1 shown, all of which are with 6-8" where the vertical & ceiling panel join and typically extend from underneath the cabinet to the panel edge (at the door, window, etc.).

Should I be looking at a repair (bondo/etc) as opposed to removing & replacing these panels? Still haven't figured a solution to removing the ceiling cabinets.

_________________
Mfg Date 0679
30' Revcon Mid-coach bath/Double Bed LR
VIN RFS279000143 Ser # 9310
454 Quadrajet Dexter Rear Axles Stock Drivetrain
16.5 950x16 x 6
Soon to be 225-75R16 on GMC 8 Lug Wheels


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:36 am
Posts: 116
Location: IL
Bondo will likely crack again, as it is not that strong. If it is plastic, most likely it is ABS. If so, you want to use a solvent based glue. There is a product called Plastifix. You end up cutting a v-slot where the crack is and then filling it with Plastifix.

I have a motorcyle that is completely enclosed in plastic - often mistaken for a scooter. Those that own these bikes have had to make several plastic repairs, that the product they use.

_________________
Dave

The Flying Fortress
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
Yes it is SOLD

FMCA F298817


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 Profile  
 
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