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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:42 pm
Posts: 14
Hello All,
I have just begun the process of getting my 1985 Duke 29 (yeah, it’s a whale tail) back in shape. I’ve had it for a number of years and finally have the time to get at it. Lots of upgrades are planned including all new drivetrain, disc brakes on the rear axles, all new lighting and wiring, plumbing, paint, the list goes on and on.
Over the past month I dropped the front subframe out and pulled the engine and transmission. I’ll be posting pictures if anyone is interested in what it takes to do it. I’m sort of following what Daveinet did to his as far as upgrades to the drivetrain.

Mark


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File comment: Here she is 1985 Duke 29 “Whale Tail”.
It’s been sitting for years.

C489D9DA-1B0F-4C36-8439-1255D0616ECF.jpeg
C489D9DA-1B0F-4C36-8439-1255D0616ECF.jpeg [ 119.61 KiB | Viewed 2214 times ]


Last edited by Marks_WT on Sun Jul 17, 2022 12:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 2:38 pm 
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The first thing to do for the extraction of the subframe is the removal of the bumper. Then jack the front up high enough to get the wheels off. There’s an aluminum duct that is pop riveted in that directs air into the radiator from the opening below the “grill” that has to be removed.

Mark


Attachments:
99423C48-B9D9-430C-9F5B-E2297D57F299.jpeg
99423C48-B9D9-430C-9F5B-E2297D57F299.jpeg [ 103.3 KiB | Viewed 2213 times ]


Last edited by Marks_WT on Sun Jul 17, 2022 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:42 pm
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Inside the wheel well the fiberglass body is pop riveted to the rails of the subframe. Drill them out.


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A3ED50B4-488A-4D1D-A3F1-82A84A57CA32.jpeg
A3ED50B4-488A-4D1D-A3F1-82A84A57CA32.jpeg [ 122.96 KiB | Viewed 2213 times ]


Last edited by Marks_WT on Sun Jul 17, 2022 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 3:33 pm 
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It sort of goes without saying that you’ll have to disconnect everything that runs from the body to the subframe, ie exhaust, fuel and water lines, electrical, throttle, shift, and speedo cables, brake lines, etc. I punch marked the steering shaft at the slip yoke so I’ll be sure to get it back in “clocked” in the same position. I’m redoing EVERYTHING so I didn’t spend a lot of time marking too many things for reconnecting. I did make notes as to the connection of the hydraulic lines for power steering and brake.
Once everything is disconnected it’s time to support the frame of the main body of the coach. This is done right behind where the subframe is connected. I have a pair of big jack stands that worked fine. There are two places on each side where the subframe is bolted to the main frame as well as one on each side up in the front where it attaches to the frame of the front cap. Lower the coach and put a little weight on main jack stands and stop. Get stands ready to support the subframe and remove the bolts holding it to the body frame rails. I left one bolt on each side in the back to keep an eye on things as it came apart. The front fiberglass section will sag down a bit so the bolts won’t want to come out easily. Due to the front bumper mounts sticking out of the fiberglass the subframe has to be moved back before it can come down. I had it blocked up on car wheel dollies in order to be able to move it, once clear I removed the blocks and dropped it down as low as I could.

Mark


Attachments:
05186894-9C3C-4412-8DF9-60C39A31A206.png
05186894-9C3C-4412-8DF9-60C39A31A206.png [ 235.23 KiB | Viewed 2213 times ]


Last edited by Marks_WT on Sun Jul 17, 2022 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 4:10 pm 
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Next step is to raise the main body up enough for the engine to clear. At this point I decided to cut off the lower fiberglass “chin” piece. I can easily fiberglass it back in later and it will reduce the height of jacking quite a bit. At this point I removed the radiator as it was an easy time to do it. I had to take it out last year an solder up some corroded tubes in order to move the coach about 40 miles to it’s present location. It wasn’t a hard job to remove it then, but it was very easy to do it at this point. Once the coach is high enough the subframe comes right out.

Mark


Attachments:
9BA7765D-39DA-40AF-BAE5-963AD9C4E9EA.jpeg
9BA7765D-39DA-40AF-BAE5-963AD9C4E9EA.jpeg [ 107.92 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]
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2AAB027D-DFAF-4265-92EE-D9BB77EC9D3D.jpeg [ 115.2 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]
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22548A9D-971A-499A-87B8-9BB079DB4A57.png [ 241.52 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]


Last edited by Marks_WT on Sun Jul 17, 2022 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 4:22 pm 
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Here are a few pictures of what the drive train looks like. In order to get the differential out I had to remove the yoke from one of the drive shafts. The frame is now off to be sandblasted. When I get it back I will be using a paint called “POR 15”, an expensive but very tough brush on paint that comes highly recommended.


Attachments:
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227CDC7F-5316-4F98-B246-9BFC1C890CF3.png [ 248.88 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]
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32CE22AA-097A-41A9-AEB8-1F7474F94E4E.png [ 245.28 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]


Last edited by Marks_WT on Sun Jul 17, 2022 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 4:24 pm 
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Could only put up 3 pictures at a time so here’s the rest.

Mark


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498E1280-8229-4F56-965C-DB4C12474734.png
498E1280-8229-4F56-965C-DB4C12474734.png [ 236.86 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]
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DC3B53BE-DFBD-4859-A450-47F489A6E6FF.png
DC3B53BE-DFBD-4859-A450-47F489A6E6FF.png [ 226.27 KiB | Viewed 2212 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2022 5:06 pm 
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As you may have noticed, the engine is offset to the passenger side in order to allow the differential to fit underneath. This explains why the passenger side torsion bar is the one that sags first. I could immediately tell the difference between the action/movement of the two sides after the subframe was out. With the torsion bar screws backed all the way out on both sides I could easily get the passenger side to "bounce" but not the drivers side. I've posted information on another thread about torsion bars, now the debate is to change just the passenger side, or both. I read awhile back that someone broke a bar, don't recall if they said which side it was, but I'm betting....
I did get the measurements needed off of a 2014 Chevy Silverado 3500 but now the Revcon A-frames are at the sandblasters so I'lll have to wait on identifying which bars to use


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2022 7:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2021 10:51 am
Posts: 137
Thank you very much for posting this!!!

_________________
1979 Revcon Camelot 30ft. 403 L80 Oldsmobile Toronado FWD UPP


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2022 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:42 pm
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Picked up the sub frame and lower suspension A arms today from the sandblaster, I'll coat them tomorrow with "POR 15" brush-on paint. I chose silver so I'll be able to see anything that drips much easier. Black hides things better but I'd rather see things that develop leaks. The choices were black, gray, or silver. I would have picked white if they offered it. I'll give my opinion of the paint after this part is done.

Mark


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